How To Take Care Of Orchid Plants Indoors

There are several varieties of orchids that can be cultivated in the home.

It’s not difficult to learn how to care for orchids if they’re grown in the right conditions.

Keep reading to find out how to care for your indoor orchids.

How Do I Take Care of an Orchid Flower?

Taking good care of indoor orchid plants is simple once you know how to do it correctly. Depending on the kind, these blooms can be found in a variety of colors and sizes.

They’re perfect for adding a pop of color to practically any interior design.

Once their fundamental demands, such as light, temperature, and humidity, have been addressed, orchids require little attention.

Orchid Growing Tips

Orchids, for the most part, prefer wet, draining environments. Sphagnum peat moss, pebbles, cork, and charcoal are only some of the growth media options available for orchid plants.

Sphagnum moss, coarse perlite, fir bark, and sphagnum moss make up a basic mix for cultivating orchids.

Charcoal can be added, but it’s not necessary. The type of orchid being grown has a significant impact on the quality of the bark.

Orchids such as phalaenopsis and cattleya prefer coarse bark, while juvenile orchids prefer medium bark, and so on.

Planting orchids in shallow soil is necessary. Use an east to south-facing room or window to place orchids.

Bright, indirect light is ideal for this type of plant. Poor blossoming is caused by a lack of light. Leaf scorch can occur if there is an excessive amount of light.

When caring for indoor orchids, the temperature is equally critical.

Even though orchids may grow in a wide range of temperatures throughout the year, they must be kept at least 8 degrees colder at night in order to bloom properly.

Indoor Orchid Care Tips

After a few days, you should give your orchids a break by letting them dry out between waterings.

If you poke your finger approximately an inch (2.5 cm) into the growing media, you’ll know if it needs watering. If it’s dry, water it; if not, leave it alone.

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A humidity level of fifty to seventy percent is ideal for indoor orchids. Humidity can be increased in a variety of ways, including by using humidifiers.

Use a humidifier, spritz your plants, or place a water-filled saucer or tray under your plants to keep them moist.

Regularly fertilize your orchids while they’re still growing, then reduce the frequency to monthly or bi-monthly once they’ve matured. Once the plants have gone dormant, stop all fertilizer applications.

Pruning

Pruning old timber will allow for the growth of new plants. Various orchids, on the other hand, necessitate different trimming techniques.

Make sure your pruning instrument is sharp and sanitized before you begin pruning an orchid. An orchid’s health is improved by having a clean cut.

Removing wilting orchid blossoms will save the plant energy that could be better spent elsewhere. Cut back to the main branch and remove the wasted flower.

The plant is finished flowering when the stems with faded flowers are pruned back to an inch from the primary branch.

It is crucial to know how to trim your specific species of the plant because some orchids need the spent blooms removed while the stalks, or spikes, remain uncut.

There are some orchids that have the ability to rebloom.

Propagating Orchids

Due to the tiny seeds’ demand for particularly specialized circumstances that are difficult to recreate, propagating orchids from seed is famously difficult.

Orchid division is the most prevalent method of propagation. The following methods can be followed if you currently have a mature or large orchid and want to divide it into two separate plants:

  • Make it simpler to remove your orchid from its container by spritzing it with water.
  • Remove any dark, mushy, or papery thin roots that are injured or dead from the orchid. The firmness of healthy roots is an indication of their good health.
  • Tweak some of the roots and stems to see if it helps (also called pseudobulbs, which are the pod-like structures below the leaves). Use a sterile cutting tool if you can’t get them apart by hand.
  • Repot each plant in a new medium, stake if necessary, and water.
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Potting and Repotting Orchids

It is common practice to place gift orchids in containers that are not suitable for their long-term growth. The roots are frequently surrounded by moss in a plastic container.

The roots of orchids are water-gathering organs that require fresh air to thrive in nature. Your orchid’s current container may not be ideal but don’t try to move it otherwise it will be upset and lose its flowers.

With sterile snippers and an orchid combination, remove the dead flower spike and repot the plant after it has finished blooming.

The broad drainage openings in orchid pots allow water to flow freely through the pot. Pine bark, charcoal, and even polystyrene foam are common materials in orchid potting mixtures. Follow these instructions to repot your orchid:

  • The plant should be removed from the plastic pot it arrived in and the moss should be carefully removed as much as possible.
  • Make sure the roots are in good condition. White and solid roots with a little green growth tip indicate healthy roots. Sterilized, sharp cutting tools can be used to remove any shriveled or decayed roots.
  • Fill the new pot with potting soil and place the plant in it. In spite of the fact that the plant should be firmly in place, it is not going to be fully anchored. New roots will eventually emerge from the potting mix and adhere to the pot, securing your plant in place.
  • Find a decent site for the orchid once it has been reported. East-facing windows that let in light for just a few minutes in the morning are the best.
  • The plant should be placed in a wide, deep tray filled with gravel, which will provide the proper humidity and capture any runoff water.

Insect Pests and Diseases of Plants

It is unfortunate that these lovely flowers are also a favorite for a wide variety of common plant pests, including aphids and fungus gnats.

To minimize bug populations, use a mild brush, a water jet, or soapy water to eradicate the majority of pests.

Insects can also be sprayed with rubbing alcohol or liquid dish soap mixed with a few drops of liquid dish soap.

Neem oil, which can smother pests, is another option for insect control. 2

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Root rot, anthracnose, phytophthora, botrytis, leaf algae, and petal blight are only some of the fungal diseases that can affect orchids.

How to Bloom Orchids

Orchids typically bloom at least once a year, if not more. However, this varies from variety to variety. As a result, seeing a flowerless orchid that had previously bloomed is disappointing.

The trick is to get the orchids to bloom again. Perfect light, medium, and humidity are preferred by orchids.

Some orchids, such as the phalaenopsis orchid, which is, fortunately, one of the most popular houseplants marketed, are motivated to bloom if the temperature drops for a few nights.

Common Problems With Orchids

You should transfer the plant if you notice any signs of distress, such as shrivelled or yellowed leaves or falling buds.

As long as the plant is in a happy place, it should produce new roots, leaves, or canes on a regular basis, and will repay you with a gorgeous bloom every year.

Leaves Shriveled and Wrinkled

Even if the orchid is being watered properly, shrivelled and wrinkled leaves signal that it isn’t getting enough water.

Roots that aren’t healthy could be to blame. Ideally, the roots will be round and white or green in color.

The plant is underwatered if its roots are in good health. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to remove diseased roots, and then repot in a new medium if necessary.

Leaves Turning Yellow

The yellowing of your orchid’s leaves may be due to root rot. The plant should be re-potted in a new medium.

Buds Dropping

The plant may be stressed for a variety of reasons if the buds fall off before they blossom.

At this point, you’ll need to look into the orchid’s surroundings and choose a new home for it. There are a few things to look out for:

  • The plant is being underwatered or overwatered.
  • The orchid is experiencing swings in temperature because it is near a heating vent, air conditioner, or some other draft.
  • The plant is sensitive to nearby chemical fumes (paint or gas, for example).
  • The orchid is sensitive to nearby plants or fruits producing the gas ethylene.
  • The orchid is in a low-humidity spot.
  • There’s a possible pest infestation.
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